How to Grow Eggplant

General Information

Scientific Name:

Solanum Melongena

Common Names:

Egg[;amt. aubergine, brinjal

Plant Family:

Solanaceae

Vegetable Type:

Warm Season fruiting vegetable

Popular Varieties:

Black beauty, Ichiban, Fairy Tale, Rosa Bianca, Little Finger

Know Before You Grow

Growing Zones:

5 to 11

Crops per Year:

1 crop per year usually. In the warmest zones, some gardeners may manage 2 plantings.

Plants Per Person:

2 to 3 plants per person, but if you will be doing any preservation of eggplant, you may need 3 to 5 plants per person.

Frost Hardy:

None

Heat Tolerant:

Good heat tolerance, but extreme heat can reduce fruit set.

Stratification:

No

Scarification:

No

Resistances:

Some varieties handle heat or disease better than others.

Rotation Schedule

Schedule:

3 year rotation schedule.

Follow ->:

beans, peas, onions, garlic, leafy greens, root crops

<-Following:

beans, peas, brassicas, carrots, lettuce, onions

Starting from Seed

When:

8 to 10 weeks before transplanting outside.

Soil:

Seed starting mix

Depth:

1/4 inch deep

Water:

Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy

Germination:

7 to 14 days

Up Pot:

When seedlings have their true leaves. Try to up pot before they become root bound.

Harden Off:

Harden off for about 7 to 10 days before transplanting.

Light:

14 to 16 hours per day.

Soil Temperature:

75° to 90°F

Heat Mat:

Yes

Garden Bed Prep

Soil:

Rich, loose, fertile well-draining soil

pH:

6.0 to 6.8

Soil Depth:

10 to 12 inches

Trellis:

No, but staking may be needed.

Fertilizer:

Eggplant is a moderate to fairly heavy feeder. Add 1 to 2 inches of compost to the soil and use a balanced garden fertilizer.

Transplanting

When:

After all danger of frost has passed, nights are reasonably warm and the soil is warm.

Depth:

As deep as they were in the pot.

Spacing:

18 to 24 inches apart, rows should be 30 to 36 rows apart.

Mulch:

Yes, once the plants are established. Add 2 to 3 inches.

Water:

Water immediately after transplanting.

Plants per Square Foot:

1 eggplant for every 2 square feet, but if this isn’t possible, certainly no more than 1 per square foot.

Direct Sowing

When:

Direct sow is not recommended. Seeds should be started indoors well before the last frost.

Growing Care

Soil pH:

6.0 to 6.8

Fertilizer/Feed:

After plants are established, side dress lightly. Side-dress again when flowering starts or when the fruit first sets.

Days to Maturity:

70 to 90 days from transplant.

Water:

Water thoroughly so that moisture reaches the root zone. While you may let the soil dry, do not let the plants wilt. Water for about 30 minutes once a week for best results.

Pruning:

Remove dead, damaged or diseased parts. You may prune the bottom leaves or thin them to allow for better airflow.

Pollination:

Self-Pollinating

Companions & Antagonists

Plant Family:

Antagonists:

beans

tomatoes

peas

peppers

spinach

potatoes

lettuce

–

marigolds

–

basil

–

Attracts & Repels

Attracts:

Repels:

bees

Nothing

ladybugs

–

lacewings

–

hoverflies

–

Pests & Disease

Pests:

Disease:

flea beetles

verticillium wilt

aphids

bacterial wilt

spider mites

early blight

stink bugs

damping off

colorado potato beetles

blossom end rot

Seed Saving

When:

Let fruit become fully mature, beyond eating stage.

Method:

Remove from vine, cut open, remove seeds. Wash seeds free of pulp (do not use soap or any other cleaners other than water), dry thoroughly.

Storage:

Store in a cool, dry place.

Harvest Time

When:

When they are full sized for their variety. The rind should be glossy, firm and still have smooth skin.

How:

Use pruners or a knife to remove the fruit from the plant.

Storing:

Fresh eggplant only keeps for 4 to 7 days. Keep it refrigerated for best results, and do not wash before storing.

Preservation Methods:

freezing, canning, dehydration. Best preserved after cooking.

Troubleshooting

Big plant, few fruits:

Usually too much nitrogen, not enough warmth early on, or poor pollination

Flowers dropping:

Can be caused by heat stress, cold nights, drought, stress, or general plant stress

Fruit is bitter:

Usually overripe fruit, heat stress, or variety differences

Leaves full of tiny holes:

Often flea beetles

Plants look wilted, even with water:

Possible wilt disease, root trouble, or severe stress

Fruit small or misshapen:

Could be poor pollination, plant stress or weak fertility.

Brown spot on blossom end of fruit:

Likely blossom end rot, often tied to uneven moisture and calcium movement issues.

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