How to Grow Olive Trees

General Information

Botanical Name:

Olea europaea

Common Names:

Olive, Olive Tree

Plant Family:

Oleaceae

Type:

Evergreen; Fruit

Our Favorite Varieties:

Arbequina, Mission, Manzanilla, Kalamata, Koroneiki

Know Before You Grow

Growing Zones:

Zones: 8–11

Frost Hardy:

Light frost only; damage below ~20°F

Heat Tolerant:

Yes; thrives in hot, dry conditions

Chill Hours:

200–400 (needed for flowering and fruit set)

Pollination Needs:

Many are self-fertile, but a second variety can improve yield

Rootstock:

Usually grown on own roots or grafted

Full Size:

15–30 feet depending on variety and pruning

Years to Produce:

3–5 years

In-Ground or Container:

Both; does well in containers when pruned

Starting from Seed

When:

Spring

Stratification:

Not required

Scarification:

Yes; crack or soak pits to improve germination

Soil

Well-draining seed-starting mix

Depth:

1 inch

Water:

Keep lightly moist, not wet

Germination:

1–3 months

Up Pot:

When seedlings are established

Light:

Full sun

Soil Temperature:

70–80°F

Heat Mat:

Helpful

Harden Off:

7–10 days

Planting Site Prep:

Soil:

Well-draining sandy or rocky soil; tolerates poor soils

pH:

6.0–8.0

Drainage:

Critical; olives do not tolerate wet soil

Sun:

Full sun (6–8+ hours)

Spacing:

Dwarf: 10–12 feet; semi-dwarf: 15–20 feet; standard: 20–30 feet apart

Hole Size:

2–3 times wider than root ball, same depth

Fertilizer/Feed:

Minimal; too much fertilizer reduces fruiting

Compost:

Lightly mix if soil is very poor

Mulch:

2–3 inches, kept away from trunk

Planting:

When:

Spring after frost or fall in mild climates

How:

Plant at same depth as container; ensure excellent drainage

Depth:

Same as nursery depth

Spacing:

Dwarf: 10–12 feet apart; semi-dwarf: 15–20 feet apart; standard: 20–30 feet apart

Water:

Water deeply after planting

Mulch:

Apply 2–3 inches, keep 3–4 inches away from trunk

Staking:

May be needed for young trees in windy areas

Growing Care

Fertilizer/Feed:

Light feeding in spring if needed

Water:

Moderate; drought tolerant once established, but better production with occasional deep watering

Pruning:

Prune to shape and improve airflow; olives fruit on new growth

Thinning:

Not required

Mulching:

Maintain light mulch, but avoid excessive moisture around roots

Pollination:

Wind pollinated; second tree can improve yield

Winter Protection:

Protect from hard freezes

Summer Protection:

Minimal; handles heat well

Companions & Antagonists

Plant Family:

Antagonists:

Herbs, lavender, rosemary, thyme, groundcovers

none

Attracts & Repels

Attracts:

Repels:

Pollinators, beneficial insects

Some pests due to aromatic foliage

Pests & Disease

Pests:

Disease:

Scale

Root Rot

Aphids

Leaf Spot

Olive Fruit Fly

–

Propagation

Seed:

Possible but not true to type

Cuttings:

Common method

Grafting:

Used for specific varieties

Layering:

Also effective

Harvest Time

When:

Fall to winter depending on use (green or ripe olives)

How:

Hand pick or harvest nets under tree

What:

Fruit (olives)

Storing:

Not eaten fresh; must be cured

Preservation Methods:

Methods: Brining, curing, oil pressing

Uses:

Culinary Uses:

Oil production, cured olives, cooking

Medicinal Uses:

Heart health support, healthy fats

Wildlife Uses:

Limited; mainly human use

Landscape Uses:

Drought-tolerant ornamental tree

Wood Uses:

Dense hardwood for carving and small projects

Troubleshooting

No fruit:

Not enough chill hours or poor pollination

Yellow leaves:

Overwatering or poor drainage

Leaf drop:

Stress or root issues

Poor growth:

Soil too rich or too wet

Root rot:

Soil not draining properly

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